Fall-apart beef short ribs braised low and slow in red wine and aromatics until the sauce turns glossy. A weekend project worth every hour.
Heat the oven to 325F. Pat the short ribs bone-dry and season aggressively with salt and pepper on all sides. Dry meat is what gives you a real crust.
Heat the oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high. Sear the ribs in batches, 3 to 4 minutes per side, until deeply browned all over. Don't crowd the pan or they'll steam. Move them to a plate. This brown crust is where most of the flavor comes from; take it past golden to dark, and don't rush the batches.
Pour off all but a tablespoon of fat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook 6 minutes until softened, then add the garlic and tomato paste and cook 2 minutes until the paste darkens. Sprinkle in the flour and stir 1 minute.
Pour in the wine, scraping up every browned bit from the bottom, and let it reduce by about a third, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the stock, thyme, and bay leaves.
Nestle the ribs back in so they're mostly submerged. Bring to a simmer, cover, and braise in the oven 2.5 to 3 hours, until the meat is fork-tender and pulling from the bone.
Lift the ribs out gently. Skim the fat off the sauce, then simmer it on the stovetop until it thickens to a glossy gravy. Discard the herb stems and bay. Spoon the ribs and sauce over mash or polenta and finish with parsley.